September 26, 2023 - 0 comments
Champagne, that sparkling elixir often synonymous with celebration and luxury, is the result of meticulous craftsmanship. Its production, known as the "méthode champenoise," is governed by strict standards. However, this does not prevent many winemakers from striving to make it as natural as possible, creating magnificent champagnes while respecting both the environment and the unique characteristics of the appellation
In the world of wine, the term "natural" has gained popularity among consumers who increasingly appreciate wines made with minimal intervention and from vineyards that use no chemicals. To meet these expectations, some winemakers are taking on the challenge of producing champagnes with little or no sulfites. However, a few key steps in the process diverge from the traditional definition of natural wine.
Champagne production begins with the hand-picking of grapes in late summer, as required by the AOC Champagne specifications. The grapes are then gently pressed to extract the juice.
Next comes alcoholic fermentation, during which the naturally occurring yeasts on the grapes transform the sugars into alcohol. This is generally followed by malolactic fermentation, a process where bacteria convert malic acid into lactic acid, reducing the wine’s acidity and imparting aromatic notes of brioche and butter.
Up to this point, the process is quite similar to that of making other wines. However, champagne-making doesn't stop there; it is a long and complex process.
In the Champagne region, "tirage" begins on January 1st of the year following the harvest, as stipulated by the appellation's specifications. During this stage, the wine is bottled, and the "liqueur de tirage," made from still wine, yeast, and sugar, is added. The addition of this liqueur initiates the "prise de mousse," or the formation of bubbles in the champagne, which is crucial for creating its iconic effervescence.
The bottled champagne then undergoes a regulated aging process: 15 months for non-vintage champagnes and a minimum of 3 years for vintage champagnes. During this period, the bottles undergo "remuage," a process in which they are gradually rotated from a horizontal position to an upside-down position. This allows the deposit of dead yeast from the second fermentation to accumulate in the neck of the bottle.
The final stages of the champagne-making process are disgorging and dosage. The neck of the bottle is immersed in a solution at around -27°C, forming an ice cube that traps the deposit. The bottle is then opened, allowing the pressure within to expel the deposit. The liquid lost during disgorging is replaced by a "liqueur d'expédition" (also known as "liqueur de dosage"), which may or may not contain added sugar. When no sugar is added, the result is "zero dosage" champagne, also known as "brut nature."
Champagne production is highly regulated, yet it remains a complex process requiring significant manipulation and patience. The tirage and dosage stages, essential for champagne's effervescence, pose challenges for winemakers committed to natural winemaking. These steps involve adding two inputs: yeast and sugar, which deviate from the purist vision of natural wine. If a Champagne winemaker wishes to experiment, as many natural winemakers do, they risk losing their AOC Champagne designation. In such cases, they are compelled to give all their wine to a cooperative distillery and cannot bottle under their own name, effectively losing an entire year's work.
At this point, we’d like to explain what Raisin considers a "natural" Champagne estate.
More than 50% of the wines produced on the estate must meet the following criteria:
- Grapes must come from chemical-free vineyards.
- Grapes must be harvested by hand.
- Alcoholic and malolactic fermentations must be carried out using only indigenous yeasts.
- Physical techniques such as reverse osmosis, tangential filtration, flash pasteurization, thermovinification, and centrifugation are not permitted.
- The addition of selected (non-GMO) yeasts is allowed only for the setting of foam.
- The only accepted input is sulfur, and its total volume must not exceed 40 mg/L after disgorging and dosage.
- No added sugar (Champagne Zéro Dosage or Brut Nature).
