Do natural wines keep? Well, plenty of them do – like this 20-year-old, barrel raised for 4 years on the lees, all natural Riesling. Meet the 1997 Muenchberg Grand Cru from Julien Meyer.

The color, a limpid gold. A touch of petrol on the nose followed by a full, vibrant, tense structure from the first sip. A sensation of energy meets a physical fusion of bitter salinity, complex citrus flavors, and minerality. Magic by Patrick and Mireille Meyer in Nothalten, Alsace.

Photo by Benoit Cortet