June 08, 2023 - Featured Winemaker - No comment

Beatriz Papamija - Clos Kixhaya

Clos Kixhaya : 7 Rte du Pressoir, 37500 Chinon, France

In 2019, Beatriz Papamija arrived in Chinon, accompanied by her husband, Etienne Leblanc, their three children, and an ardent passion for natural wine and self-sufficiency. Yet, above all, she brought an energy capable of waking up Gargantua and his entire entourage. 

Before you start searching for obscure references to Rabelais in the name of this new estate, know that the Chinon locals, although masters of word play, aren't indulging in it this time. To christen her dormant domain, Beatriz—affectionately known as Bea—delved into her roots: "Kixhaya" is a compound word in the Nasa language, originating from her Colombian grandfather's Amerindian people, signifying "vine" and "water." A subtle nod to the origin of her charming accent. A Colombian by birth, she crossed paths with her partner, Etienne Leblanc, in Spain, and they began building their family in England. Trained as an architect specializing in renewable energy, Bea harbored a long-standing desire to work the land. However, she quickly realized that "in Colombia, it wasn't possible." Reflecting on her time in architecture school, she notes, "We were told, 'an architect is not a profession but a way of life.' I only truly grasped the meaning of that phrase when I became a winemaker."

The Journey

"I sought a profession where I could engage in the entire process," Bea explains. "And winemaking encapsulates just that. You can be in the vineyards, touch the plants, engage in winemaking, and finally, participate in marketing, too. It amalgamates many roles into one." The couple yearned for a change, a departure from city life to embrace the countryside. With Etienne hailing from Pas-de-Calais, Bea firmly vetoed that option. The South was deemed "too arid." "I discovered the Loire, and I fell for it. The diversity, the richness—it's incredible!" Following a BPREA in Montreuil-Bellay, Bea officially became a winemaker. Clos Kixhaya is a collaborative venture: Bea and Etienne pursue their dream of autonomy and a self-sustaining Eden. In managing the winery, Etienne handles administrative and financial matters, but Bea is the craftsman behind the wines, setting the tone. It's essential for Bea to emphasize this, "I can't help but notice that I have to prove every day that I am a winemaker. Whereas Etienne, who hasn't undergone the training or internships, steps into the vineyards, and voila, he's a winemaker in the eyes of the world..."

Dormant House

Discovering the vineyards required a stroke of luck and considerable audacity. Their "Clos" spanning 4.5 hectares, enclosed by partially collapsed walls, came with an accompanying house just opposite. However, describing it as a house would be generous—it was more of a ruin in tuffeau, covered in brambles up to the roof, with just enough past grandeur to inspire dreams. While awaiting extensive renovations, the small family settled into the caretaker's cottage. Everyone, including grandparents, embarked on the colossal task of reviving this dormant beauty.

Cabernet Franc Only!

The formula is simple: cabernet franc and more cabernet franc. If you're skeptical, Bea shares, "I also dreamed of having many different grape varieties. But you see, it's not possible. The more I discover cabernet franc, the more I'm amazed by all you can do with it!" From bubbles to rosés, light reds to less light reds—cabernet franc suits every purpose. The winemaker adds, "And me? I'm a bit irresponsible. I test everything, including things we shouldn't do, like whole-cluster macerations..."

In terms of soil, it's "sands" and limestone beneath the vines, in other words: freshness and minimal depth. The plot is situated on the left bank of the Vienne (Chinon's historical hillsides are mostly on the right bank). The transition to organic practices began immediately, along with the adoption of gentle vine pruning techniques, aiming for greater respect for the vines and sustainability. A small vine surface was uprooted, and Bea intends to replant it with gouais, an old historic white grape of the region.

"To avoid frost, we prune as late as possible, together, to speed up the process. That's our sole defense." For all other tasks, it's Bea who takes charge, perched on her meticulously chosen small tractor, enabling her to repair and handle it independently. #selfreliance

The Wines: Freshness and Delicacy

With her cabernet franc and contiguous plot, Bea crafts five distinct cuvées: a pet-nat, a white wine (from red grapes), a rosé, and two red wines. During her training, Bea encountered the "miracles" of modern oenology. "When I discovered that up to 400 products could be used to make wine, I was appalled," she reflects. "We don't invest all that attention in the raw material just to introduce chemicals afterward!" Her amazement persists. Extracted with tenderness and finesse, using minimal machinery and aged patiently, all her wines remain sulfur-free to date."

The Wines from Clos Kixhaya

At Clos Kixhaya, there is only one grape variety: Cabernet Franc.

  Bubbles

• Blanc de Noir: a cuvée made with grapes (Cabernet Franc) harvested earlier to ensure acidity, using direct pressing.

The Reds

• Les Grappes : this cuvée comes from the youngest vines; the grapes are pressed very slowly after a ten-day maceration, and the wine is aged for seven months in tanks before bottling. "For me, it's the purity of Cabernet," explains Bea.
• Le Clos 2020 : the grapes are hand-stemmed, macerated for 40 days, and foot-trodden, resulting in a richer and more structured material, yet delicate. "It doesn't exist, but we did a fermentative maceration. When we went to the press, the juices were dry, except in the grapes."
• Amphores : "I really wanted amphoras, but not the ones in terracotta, too porous, nor in stoneware as they come from China. The ones I chose are from Italy, a mixture of clays, with the porosity of a barrel. This gives a chalky texture to the wine, a warm and cold aspect at the same time, an almost mineral structure."

The Rosé

• Cryptochrome (not tasted).

Contact Clos Kixhaya :